Étretat: Arsène Lupin's home, the rogue of French Literature
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Apr 14, 2024

Étretat: Arsène Lupin's home, the rogue of French Literature

Étretat: Arsène Lupin's home, the rogue of French Literature
Julien Mainguy

French and based in Vancouver since 2014, Julien Mainguy is the co-founder of Best of France. Passionate about the cultural difference between Canada and Europe, he is leading numerous projects to create awareness, help people grow, and bring communities together.

«If I have to show the sea to a friend, it will be Etretat» says Alphonse Karr, novelist and journalist in his novel Histoire de Romain d'Étretat, in the middle of the 19th century. 

Located in the Seine-Maritime department in the Normandie region, Etretat is nowadays an unmissable French destination. Once a modest fishing village, Étretat became in the 19th century a renowned seaside resort that attracted the most illustrious artists in search of inspiration. Romantic theatre opens on the Manche, a visit of the city is enough to understand why its splendid cliffs invite imagination and attract so many nature enthusiasts. There, legends do not need to be written, they live by themselves in this cradle of wild beauty in which the mythical Arsène Lupin was born. Therefore, if you wish to unravel the secret marvels of Normandie, Etretat might be the perfect place to go on a thrilling adventure across history, art and nature. 

If you wish to know more about the spectacular landscapes that housed Arsène Lupin, the most famous rogue of French literature, read what follows.

Stunning landscape of Etretat
Stunning landscape of Etretat

An iconic city of Normandie that has forged French cultural heritage

Etretat: From a fishing village to a luxurious seaside resort 

Already well known in Roman times, the port city of Etretat has long lived thanks to its fishing activities. You can still observe the traces of this past on the waterfront like the old boats today covered with thatch.

The first part of the 19th century in Normandie was marked by the rise of sea baths, very popular with the wealthy classes and appreciated for their therapeutic virtues. This is why, in 1840, bankers, wealthy merchants, artists and writers from all over Europe, especially from Paris and England, flocked to the shores of Etretat. The city thus became one of the most fashionable destinations

Among the many visitors to Etretat, some will build charming villas in the center of the village or on its heights. Among these magnificent villas, we can mention several residences of illustrious characters, such as the castle of Aygues, which was the holiday residence of the queens of Spain, the villa Orphée d'Offenbach, and of course, the Clos Arsène Lupin, home of the writer Maurice Leblanc, creator of the gentleman burglar. The beach and seafront are modernized and equipped for these newcomers: hotels, casinos, shops, beach huts, etc... From then on, fishing was no longer the main source of income for the city, thermal tourism was. Unfortunately, a large part of these seaside constructions were destroyed during the Second World War. However, you can still admire the elegant villas of the city during a picturesque walk by the sea.

Sunset on the city of Etretat
Sunset on the city of Etretat

A land of legend

Etretat, maritime city of art and culture, has seen the birth of many mysterious legends. Its most famous legend is probably that of the Olive Fountain. At the time when the pagans invaded France, a woman with a rare beauty named Olive washed her laundry on the beach, in the waters of the fountain, when she saw herself surrounded by an army of Vikings. She then prayed to God to save her from these barbarians, in exchange for which she swore to build a beautiful church in Etretat. God answered her prayer by raising a phenomenal storm that drove ships away from the Saracens far offshore. Subsequently, Olive kept her promise and decided to build the church by the sea. Legend has it that it was a devil who did not like Etretat who pushed Olive to finally build the Church where it is today by moving the stones at night. 

The Church of Etretat

A great source of inspiration for artists

Etretat stands out as a true el dorado of artists. Between its narrow streets, its waterfront, its charming shops, its natural beaches and the sun overlooking its incredible cliffs, Etretat proves to be a small romantic city that serves as a muse for artists

Eugène Isabey was the first painter to really picture the city and is now considered the true discoverer of Etretat. He painted it for the first time in 1820. However, many followed his leads. Turner, Monet, Boudin, and many others brought their vision of the waterfront and the famous cliffs. Immortalized by painters like Courbet, Etretat stands out as an enchanting little village. Indeed, its cliffs of legends have also inspired impressionist painters like Eugène Boudin, Camille Pissarro and, of course, Claude Monet who painted almost 90 paintings of the cliffs of Etretat. This artistic craze around the city helped to strengthen its fame.

As for writers, they also seem to fall in love with this magical setting with outdated charm. Among the writers who found their inspiration in Etretat are Guy De Maupassant, born near Dieppe and André Gide, buried in the region; Gustave Flaubert, accustomed to portraying Normandie, or Maurice Leblanc, who has created Etretat’s most famous story there, the burglar gentleman Arsène Lupin. More recently, the French author Patrick Grainville tells 60 years of history from the cliffs of Etretat in his latest novel “Falaise des Fous”.

Un coin d'appartement by Claude Monet
Un coin d'appartement by Claude Monet

The homeland of the romanesque hero Arsène Lupin

Arsène Lupin, gentleman cambrioleur is the most famous adventure of Arsène Lupin. Smoking, wearing a top hat, boutonniere with flowers and revolver in pocket: Arsène Lupin is a romanesque figurehead of the 20th century that has marked generations of readers since its appearance in July 1905. Charming playboy, this gentleman is above all an artist who gracefully commits crimes. Noble by blood, he mocks this aristocratic world and changes his identity when necessary to solve the most confusing puzzles. Arsène Lupin is the hero of more than twenty novels and anthologies, all born from the imagination of a single man: Maurice Leblanc (1864-1941). The gentleman is the main character of a long saga of adventures inspired by and often nestled in EtretatIf you are passionate about French literature or simply of fantastic adventures, visit Le Clos Lupin, the home of Maurice Leblanc, «father» of Arsène Lupin, which offers an original route to discover the gentleman burglar.

Some classic books of French literature
Some classic books of French literature

Etretat and its stunning natural landscapes 

The breathtaking cliffs of Etretat

The spectacular cliffs of Etretat stand as timeless marvels of nature's artistry along the Normandie coastline. Carved over millennia by the ceaseless embrace of the sea, these majestic limestone formations captivate all who lay eyes upon them. The most iconic among them, the 'Needle' and the 'Arch', rise boldly from the azure waters, sculpted into awe-inspiring shapes. The cliffs' towering heights offer breathtaking panoramas, allowing visitors to gaze out across the vast expanse of the English Channel, where the horizon seems to stretch into infinity. Whether shrouded in mist or bathed in the warm glow of the sun, the cliffs of Etretat hold an enchanting allure that speaks to the timeless dialogue between land and sea, a symphony of beauty etched into the very fabric of the Earth. This place is obviously one of France’s greatest wonders that you have to discover. To enjoy as much as possible Etretat and the breathtaking view of the cliffs of the Albâtre Coast, we advise you to plan your visit at the so-called off-peak hours, early in the morning or late in the evening. 

The cliffs of Etretat
The cliffs of Etretat

The pristine beaches of Etretat

As original as it is phenomenal, Etretat beach is unique. Surrounded by impressive cliffs, Etretat beach is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful beaches in Normandie. Paddle, catamaran, windsurfing, kayaking and many other activities await you to discover this extraordinary landscape... The best way to enjoy the beach is to sit in front of the sea and listen to the waves while sunbathing on the pebbles. But the beach of Etretat is also appreciated in rainy and stormy weather. This romantic spectacle typical of the Normandie coast is illustrated when powerful waves crash against the rock under a dark sky. To observe such a landscape, the seafront promenade is ideal. Sit on the terrace around a café and contemplate one of Mother Nature’s masterpieces!

The beach of Etretat
The beach of Etretat

A sanctum for nature

Normandie is one of the French regions best known for its natural beauty. Etretat is the perfect example: the cliffs and the Aiguille Creuse have made the city world famous. These natural wonders culminate at almost 90 meters and never cease to impress tourists. Nevertheless, these spaces are weakened by the force of the tide and must be protected. The inhabitants of the villages work for the preservation of the Albâtre Coast. Therefore, when you visit this fabulous place, take time to appreciate the greatness of nature at work and make sure to preserve it!

The coastline of Etretat
The coastline of Etretat

How to live a romanesque experience in Etretat

Discover the city through adventures

Apart from strolling to the beach admiring the cliffs and strolling through the charming city center, many captivating activities are possible to discover Etretat. Nature, Culture, and History await you there! Indeed, Etretat is a destination that beckons travelers seeking both natural beauty and cultural enrichment. That is why Here we have curated a trio of unforgettable activities that will make your visit to Etretat truly exceptional.

Take a Self-Guided Visit tour of Les Jardins d'Étretat 

Imagine strolling through enchanting gardens perched atop the iconic Etretat cliffs, where the greenery meets the sea in a harmonious dance. The Jardins d’Etretat promises just that. Immerse yourself in this living work of art accompanied by a self guided tour and learn everything about this masterpiece designed by landscape architect Alexandre Grivko. There, exotic flora and innovative sculptures will amaze you by blending seamlessly with panoramic views of the impressive cliffs. This inspiring experience will leave you in awe.

Etretat's gardens
Etretat's gardens

Live a Connoisseur Experience at the Benedictine Palace

During this activity, you will be able to unearth the secrets of a historic treasure: a majestic palace steeped in centuries of history and craftsmanship. During this guided tour, discover the intricate art of Benedictine liqueur production and savor tasting this exquisite elixir after exploring opulent chambers adorned with pieces of art. This experience encapsulates a journey through time and taste that promises to delight your senses.

A glass of liqueur
A glass of liqueur

Climb on an Etretat-Honfleur Private Tour

Embark on a personalized journey through the heart of Normandie. Starting from Le Havre, your private guide will lead you through the charming village of Etretat and get an exceptional view of its cliffs. Then, you will discover the picturesque town of Honfleur and its cobblestone streets filled with colourful facades. Therefore, you will have the opportunity to savour Normandie's beauty and history at your own pace. 

The port of Honfleur

The best hotels to stay in Etretat

If you plan to visit Etretat, you should know where to spend your stay in this magical place. Here is a selection of amazing hotels that will ensure the creation of cherished memories that will linger long after you bid adieu to this coastal haven. Whether you're seeking a romantic getaway or a peaceful escape, those hotels are the perfect destinations for a relaxing and picturesque stay. Book now and embark on an unforgettable journey in Etretat, one of Normandie’s brightest gems!

Hôtel Castel De La Terrasse

This place stands as a true oasis of elegance and comfort. Located in the heart of Etretat, Castel De La Terrasse is a showcase of luxury and sophistication. Just a few steps from the famous Etretat cliffs, this 4-star jewel offers a timeless retreat that also offers you the opportunity to have fun in the city. Each room exudes a masterpiece of design, blending classic elegance and modern amenities for your comfort. There, you will be able to watch the sunrise over the English Channel from your private terrace but also to relax in the hotel’s enchanting gardens while enjoying the on-site restaurant cuisine typical of Normandie.

Les Tilleuls Étretat

Showcasing a charming hideaway with a coastal view, this hotel offers a unique blend of traditional Normande architecture and contemporary comfort. Perched on the cliffs of Etretat, you will be able to enjoy stunning views of the sea and the town's iconic arches. Each room is furnished with taste and elegance, creating a cozy and warm atmosphere. Also provided with an on-site restaurant renowned for its seafood delicacies, this hotel promises its guests to savour the flavours of Normandie

Domaine Saint Clair - Le Donjon

This resort offers a unique historic retreat blending with modernity’s comfort. Set within a vast park, the Domaine Saint Clair transports you to a world of historic grandeur and modern comfort, ideal if you are an history enthusiast. Indeed, this three-star hotel exuding charm and character is housed in an 18th-century castle. The rooms are elegantly decorated, each telling a different story of the castle's rich history. There, you will be able to wander through the lush gardens, and relax by the outdoor pool. If you wish to try Normandie’s delicacies, this place will provide you with a culinary experience like no other in their gourmet restaurant, where locally sourced ingredients are transformed into delectable dishes.

A plate of fresh oysters from Normandie
A plate of fresh oysters from Normandie

Hence, if you wish to discover France, and especially Normandie, Etretat is a gem of history, natural beauty and art that you cannot miss