Nestled in the heart of Provence, Aix-en-Provence captivates visitors with its perfect blend of historical grandeur and contemporary vibrancy. This former capital of Provence, affectionately known as the "City of a Thousand Fountains," offers an enchanting mix of artistic heritage, academic excellence, and that coveted Provençal lifestyle that has inspired countless artists, writers, and dreamers throughout history.
Historical Tapestry
Founded by the Romans in 123 BC as Aquae Sextiae, named for its thermal springs and Consul Sextius Calvinus, Aix-en-Provence has evolved through centuries of rich history. The city flourished as Provence's capital until the French Revolution, leaving an indelible mark on its architecture and cultural identity. Walking through its streets today, you'll find layers of history - from Roman ruins to medieval churches and elegant 17th-century hôtels particuliers (mansion houses).
Getting There and Around
The most convenient gateway to Aix is Marseille Provence Airport, located 25 kilometers away. Regular shuttle buses connect the airport to Aix's central bus station. If you're coming from Paris, the high-speed TGV takes just over three hours, making it perfect for a weekend getaway.
Local Insider Tip: Skip the touristy buses and use the local L'Aixpress electric bus service. For just €1.20, you can traverse the city's main attractions. Buy a 10-trip card for better value if staying longer.
The Heart of Aix: Cours Mirabeau
The Cours Mirabeau serves as Aix's main artery and living room. This wide, plane tree-lined boulevard showcases the city's elegance with its baroque fountains and grand architecture. The historic Les Deux Garçons café, once frequented by Cézanne and Zola, still serves as a gathering spot for locals and visitors alike.
Local Insider Tip: Visit the Cours Mirabeau in the early morning (before 8 AM) to experience it without crowds and capture perfect photos. The morning light creates stunning effects on the honey-colored buildings, and you'll see locals going about their morning routines.
Cultural Heritage and Artistic Soul
Paul Cézanne's presence still lingers in Aix. A native of Aix-en-Provence, he is celebrated as a pioneer of modern art, whose works bridged Impressionism and Cubism and deeply influenced 20th-century artists. His studio, preserved as he left it in 1906, offers an intimate glimpse into the tools, objects, and atmosphere that inspired masterpieces like Mont Sainte-Victoire.
The Musée Granet houses an impressive collection of art, featuring works by Cézanne, Picasso, and other masters, alongside ancient and contemporary pieces. Don’t miss the adjoining Granet XXe exposition, which focuses on 20th-century art. The Hôtel de Caumont Arts Centre, set in a beautifully restored 18th-century mansion, hosts exceptional temporary exhibitions, often spotlighting renowned artists, and offers a charming garden café perfect for unwinding.
Local Insider Tip: Purchase the City Pass if you plan to visit multiple museums. Also, many museums are free on the first Sunday of each month, but expect longer queues.
Markets and Shopping Experience
The thrice-weekly market (Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday mornings) in Place Richelme offers a sensory feast of Provençal products. For the full experience, visit the larger Saturday market that spreads across several squares in the old town.
Local Insider Tip: Arrive at the market by 8:30 AM for the best produce selection. Local vendors are more likely to offer tastings and better prices during the quieter early hours.
Culinary Journey
Aix's culinary scene ranges from Michelin-starred restaurants to cozy bistros. Don't miss trying calissons, the local specialty candy made from ground almonds and candied melon. Savor Provençal classics like ratatouille or a fragrant soupe au pistou at a neighborhood bistro, or snack on fougasse, a traditional olive-studded bread, from a local bakery. The city's wine bars offer excellent opportunities to discover local Provence rosés and reds, often paired with regional cheeses or tapenades. For dessert, indulge in a creamy tarte tropézienne or a light lavender-infused crème brûlée.
Local markets like Place Richelme are brimming with fresh produce, artisanal products, and local specialties, perfect for foodies and casual shoppers alike.
Local Insider Tip: For an authentic local dinner experience, book a table at Le Petit Verdot, hidden in the old town. It's popular with locals, so reserve it in advance.
Beyond the City Center
The stunning Montagne Sainte-Victoire, immortalized in Cézanne's paintings, offers excellent hiking opportunities. During lavender season (June-July), the nearby Valensole Plateau becomes a purple paradise, perfect for photography enthusiasts.
Local Insider Tip: Rent a car for day trips, but avoid keeping it in Aix - parking is expensive and challenging. Use the municipal parking lots at the city's edge instead.
Suggested Itineraries
One-Day Itinerary:
- Morning: Start at the daily market in Place Richelme (8:30-10:00 AM)
- Mid-morning: Walking tour of old town and Cathedral Saint-Sauveur (10:00 AM-12:00 PM)
- Lunch: Picnic in Parc Jourdan or lunch at historic Les Deux Garçons (12:00-2:00 PM)
- Afternoon: Visit Musée Granet and Cézanne's studio (2:00-5:00 PM)
- Evening: Aperitif and dinner in Quartier Mazarin (from 6:00 PM)
Two-Day Itinerary:
Day One: Follow the one-day itinerary
Day Two:
- Morning: Visit Atelier Cézanne and walk to Terrain des Peintres
- Lunch: Try modern Provençal cuisine at Mickaël Féval
- Afternoon: Shopping in old town boutiques
- Evening: Wine tasting session at La Cave d'Yves
Weekend Itinerary (Three Days):
Days One and Two: Follow the two-day itinerary
Day Three:
- Morning: Drive to Montagne Sainte-Victoire for hiking
- Lunch: Picnic with local products
- Afternoon: Visit nearby villages (Lourmarin or Roussillon)
- Evening: Cooking class at La Cuisine de Provence
Seasonal Highlights
Spring (March-May): Perfect weather for outdoor activities and photography. The Festival of Literature, held each spring, transforms Aix into a hub of creativity, featuring renowned authors, lively discussions, and literary events throughout the city.
Summer (June-August): Famous Festival d'Aix-en-Provence brings world-class opera performances and a vibrant arts scene. Lavender fields are in full bloom.
Fall (September-November): Wine harvest season with perfect temperatures for exploring.
Winter (December-February): The Aix-en-Provence Christmas Market fills the streets with festive cheer, while fewer tourists create a more authentic and peaceful experience
Local Insider Tip: Book accommodations well in advance if visiting during the July Opera Festival - prices soar and availability becomes scarce.
Some Practical Information
Accommodation varies from luxury hotels like Villa Gallici to charming bed and breakfasts in the old town. For longer stays, consider renting an apartment in the Mazarin quarter or Ville Nouvelle. Visit the Tourist Office at 300 avenue Giuseppe Verdi.
Local Insider Tip: Choose accommodations within the ring road (Rotonde) for easy walking access to main attractions. The Mazarin quarter offers the best balance of charm and convenience.
Where to Stay Based on Your Style
Luxury: Villa Saint-Ange
Villa Saint-Ange captures the essence of Provençal elegance in the heart of Aix-en-Provence. This boutique hotel invites you to slow down and savor life's finer moments, from the serenity of its lush Mediterranean gardens to the timeless charm of its 18th-century architecture. Enjoy refined Provençal cuisine, relax by the sparkling pool, and let the tranquil atmosphere envelop you. At Villa Saint-Ange, every detail is designed to immerse you in the art of French living.
Mid-range: Hotel de France
Hôtel de France is a delightful retreat in the heart of Aix-en-Provence, perfectly situated near the bustling Cours Mirabeau. This charming boutique hotel combines timeless style with thoughtful details, creating a cozy yet refined ambiance. Its central location makes it an ideal choice for exploring the city's lively markets, elegant squares, and cultural landmarks. Whether you're strolling through historic streets or savoring local flavors, Hôtel de France ensures a memorable Provençal experience.
Budget: Hôtel Des Augustins
Hotel des Augustins offers a unique blend of history and modern comfort in the heart of Aix-en-Provence. Set within a former 12th-century convent, the hotel retains its medieval charm with stone arches and historic details, complemented by contemporary amenities. Its central location places you steps away from the iconic Cours Mirabeau and the city’s vibrant cafés and boutiques. At Hotel des Augustins, immerse yourself in the rich heritage of Aix while enjoying a cozy, welcoming atmosphere.
For a true back-packer experience, you can also explore the hostels close to the local university.
Overall
Aix-en-Provence offers a perfect blend of French art de vivre, cultural richness, and natural beauty. Whether you're an art enthusiast, food lover, or simply seeking the authentic Provençal experience, this city delivers with elegance and charm. The key to enjoying Aix is taking time to absorb its rhythm - linger at café terraces, wander through ancient streets, and embrace the local pace of life.
Remember, the best experiences often come from straying slightly from the tourist path - follow the locals, explore the smaller streets, and don't hesitate to practice your French. Aix-en-Provence isn't just a destination; it's an invitation to experience the art of living, Provençal style.
